| Price : $332.58 | Post Date : Nov 24, 2011 01:45:08Soft Lighting Kits (Softbox Reflectors + Heavy Lighting Stands + Light Bulbs)
This kit's output gives you flexibility and power in your video or photo shoots. Each bank of lights can switch between 3 lights on, 4 lights on, or all 7. Large 30"x24" softboxes diffuse the light to remove harsh shadows. The entire kit fits into a sturdy carrying bag for easy transportation
If you have ever ordered rawhide lamp shades or any type of lampshade for that matter over the phone or online, you know it can be a challenging task. It can be very frustrating because different people measure lampshades differently.
The whole matter is complicated by telephone conversations and internet ordering. If you know how you should measure a shade to get the proper fit and also communicate the correct size, you will avoid problems and receive the lamp shade you are expecting.
It doesn't matter if the shade is made of rawhide or not, there are a few tips you should know to correctly measure and order a shade and also terminology that will help you insure that the person receiving your order is on the same track. We create custom rawhide lamp shades for rustic western lamps and southwest home decorating. Because we encounter this issue all the time we have some tips that we use to insure the correct look for a lamp, even without seeing the lamp ourselves.
How to measure:
1. You will need to have three key measurements, bottom diameter, top diameter and height. The bottom diameter is the measurement across the bottom opening of the lamp shade. The top diameter is the distance across the top opening of the shade. The height of a lampshade should be measured straight up and down vertically, not along the slant.
This is where the confusion begins. When communicating the measurements different individuals and stores will place the three dimensions in different order, it's not standard, so be careful that you are not confusing the bottom and height measurements for example.
2. The height should be measured straight up and down, but some will measure along the slant. These two measurements can be quite different and cause the finished shade to be incorrect if confused. Always clarify how the height is measured. We have found that many people who measure the slant of the shade refer to it as the shade's length rather than height.
Height Measuring Tip:
The reason you should measure height up and down, vertically, is that the height measurement of your lamp from bulb socket base to top of harp is probably the minimum vertical height you will want to cover the electrical components with the shade
Height Adjustment Tip:
If you are considering a stock replacement shade, your lamp's overall height and look can be adjusted. The wire harp that holds the shade over the bulb is interchangeable. That is great news if a standard shade is say an inch to short. Rather than having to order a custom shade you could change the harp causing the shade to sit lower on the lamp to give you the desired look.
Shade Mounting Type:
A standard shade mount has a center bar across the top with a hole for the harp mount or a washer centered by three supports that attach to the top rim of the shade. Both allow the shade to be secured to the harp. Some smaller lamps and chandeliers don't use a harp but instead use a bulb clip to attach directly to the bulb. A bulb clip is simply two wire loops that are attached to the shade's center bar and grip the bulb.
An bulb clip adapter can be added to any standard shade to allow it to be placed over the bulb. Chandelier lamp shades usually have built-in bulb clips made for the small flame or candelabra shaped bulbs. Shades used as hanging lamps may use an uno mount which has a center ring large enough for the bulb socket to pass through. These also appear on some table lamps. You can use a bulb clip on a replacement shade instead of an uno mount.
Try putting these simple tips to work on your next rawhide lamp shade or replacement lampshade project and you will be sure to measure, order and receive the right size lamp shade the first time.
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Adding power to the aquarium is not often a problem. A fish tank is not a power hungry system. Admittedly, it does use quite a number of sockets to operate the various units required for the life and the health of the fish. It is quite conservative in its power demands when compared to televisions, computers and many other entertainment appliances. These may pull a lot of juice to keep them running correctly. However, often an aquarium demands just a few extra outlets to get the power the aquarium accessories require.
The standard aquarium system usually requires at least three outlets when adding power to the aquarium accessories. The various primary functions in the aquarium ecosystem require at least one each. One for a heater, one (at least) for the filter, if there is only one being used. Finally, a socket for the aquarium lighting. Other accessories such as air pump for optimum surface agitation may also be used, requiring another plug.
Even with all these required outlets, If one considers the electrical requirements of an average 10-30 gallon aquarium, adding power for their minimal requirements is not a drain. Even with a 150 W heater (for the larger aquarium), the electrical requirements of a fully operating aquarium would be about:
150 W - Heater
6-12 W - Filter - If dual filtration is used add another 6 - 12 W to the hourly power consumption
15 - 20 W - Fluorescent Canopy
6 - 12 W for an airpiump of the system has one installed
When the heater is running, the total requirements would be maximum of 182 Watts without a secondary filter and air pump. Add a maximum of 24 more watts per hour if both are added. This situation, with extra filter and even an airpump, is actually rare these days. Now, consider that the heater rarely works a lot over the space of an hour.
When the correct temperature has been reached and is properly set, it often off more than it is on. When that is the case, it only burns energy when it heats, which is only occasionally. The thermostat requires it to run only when the temperature is under the heater's setting.
Otherwise, the energy consumption of a lit aquarium is up to 32 Watts (for a 20 Watt bulb and 12 Watt filter)as the only running aquarium equipment. When the tank is dark and the light is turned off for the the evening, it might only be using between 6 - 12 Watts an hour!
Not a lot of energy consumption for the beauty that an aquarium offers the surrounding area.
Although the power consumption is minimal, one must consider, however, how the power is delivered to the aquarium. Since the energy required is so small, it is not difficult to provide the quantity of power required. There should be no stress on the circuits in any way.
The real problem is to deliver the power to three plugs. The typical wall socket provides only two outlets from the wall. This is easily solved if there are two power outlets with a pair of sockets close to the aquarium. Unfortunately, this is rarely the case for modern homes, or even business.
In many common cases, the aquarist with only a single wall socket with two outlets uses the most common solution when adding power. The use of a multiple socket power bar of some sort is the usual solution. The problem here is that the most common installation of these units is to leave them on the floor directly beneath the aquarium to keep them out of the way. There is great danger that any water that escapes the aquarium to get into the power bar. This is quite a likely scenario in this installation scenario. There is a lot of potential for an electrical fire should free water somehow get into the hot electrical parts and short.
In a previous tip - The Importance of a Drip Loop - Set up Tip 11; we mentioned the real need for a drip loop to be in place at all times. Leaving a power bar on the floor negates the possibility of an effective wire drip loop being formed and kept available over the life of the system. In most cases, unless the power bar is mounted on the wall or suspended above the floor in some way, there is the potential for problems to occur with this solution.
We prefer to use a six socket adapter plugged over the actual wall socket. Since the electrical draw is so low anyway, there is little, if any, danger of overloading the outlet when the three to five sockets are filled with aquarium equipment. We don't recommend using any remaining outlets for anything else than aquarium appliances. This will ensure there is never any danger from power consumption overages. The benefit of using a wall socket adapter in this way is that the configuration ensures there is a good possibility that drip loops, which are so essential, are always in force. Properly formed, they will remain that way over the lifetime of the fish tank and provide passive safety from accidental water spills that otherwise could cause a catastrophic fire in the home or office.
If you live somewhere that does not allow you to grow outside all year round, you may want to start an indoor garden. You could also be looking to start a small plant propagation area in your house. A small indoor garden can do many things like giving you a jump start when it's time to plant!
Making a small grow box is easy and cost effective. Small grow setups use compact fluorescent grow lights. Basically you just want daylight color spectrum bulbs. Compact fluorescent bulbs are a great way to set up a cheap indoor garden. Use the equivalent to 100 watt incandescent bulbs. In CFLs that is roughly 23watts.
To get the most out of your cheap grow lights, position them so the bulb is either horizontal with the floor of the grow box or hanging at a 45 degree angle. The bars of the compact fluorescent lights provide the "sun" effect.
Fluorescent grow light bulbs stay relatively cool. You may need some air circulation and an exhaust fan to keep the grow box at a cool temperature.
To avoid wiring sockets for your grow lights, you can buy some conversion pieces that will save you loads of time. Start with an extension cord or surge protector. You can plug sockets into the plug spaces that convert the plug space to a lamp socket. You can turn your lamp sockets into two lamp sockets with a Y adapter. The Y adapter is also the perfect tool for getting 45 degree angle lights from the ceiling or walls.
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